I’m back
in Durango for a couple of weeks, telecommuting to work for a change. Durango
is a special place for me and many other people. One of the reasons for its
specialness, besides the steam engine rides on America’s only other narrow-gauge
railroad, the low-key topnotch ski resort now named after the town but formerly
known as Purgatory, and the awesome whitewater rafting on the rapids of the
Animas River, is the dance scene at the Wild Horse Saloon.
This is
a cowboy bar that makes its living slinging beers and mixed drinks. Durango is,
surprisingly, a working class town, and the brews are reasonably priced.
Inside
you will find ‘riggers’ from the gas wells, carpenters, nurses and ski bums.
You will also find an incredibly wide variety of men from all over America who
make the Wild Horse their home for the weekend. Hailing from all points of the
compass, these men are capable leaders of all sorts of dances, from country
2-step to rumba and salsa, and now tango.
There is
always a live band on Friday and Saturday nights with a $5 cover charge. The
dancers arrive early, around seven o’clock, and most of us hang our coats on
chairs around George’s table, a regular patron since I’ve been coming here nearly two years ago.
Last night,
there were nine coats on four seats surrounding a table barely big enough for
two people.
I’ll
probably catch hell for this but I’ll be gone Sunday, heading back to
Wisconsin. It seems to me that most of the women are beginner dancers, with
only one or two years of experience. The leaders, on the other hand, are
lifelong dancers who’ve forgotten more dance steps than even they can remember.
At about
9:30, the crowd on the dance floor starts to fill with younger dancers until it is too packed for anyone to move.
Most of
the music playing is country with a strong Latino flavor. Every now and then, I’ll
hear a melody that strongly suggests ochos or milonga steps and I’ll dance tango.
No one seems to mind and my dance partner and I have even gotten some
heart-felt compliments.
Next
month, Mike Malixi and Carrie Field, a pair of tango instructors from Taos,
will be here for a workshop and I’m certain they will be at the Wild Horse
Saloon after the free lesson at Durango Dance, just a few blocks away.
Mike is
no stranger to dancing tango in a country bar as he hails from Montana. The
beautiful Carrie, I’m certain, will be overwhelmed by a slew of dance invitations
and she will no doubt delight her partners when they find they are dancing with a world traveling tanguera.
As I
walked down the street at 10:30, the snow-covered Rocky Mountains fighting the
stars for a piece of the sky, I felt elated, relaxed and rejuvenated all at the
same time. It was good to be back. Maybe one day I will be back forever.
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