Saturday, June 6, 2015

The Best Milonga in the World



Located on Penn Ave in that section of Pittsburgh that strongly rivals New York City’s Greenwich Village, the RJW Law Office & Dance Emporium is an enigma that baffles those trying so hard to be baffling. A tango gathering takes place here called the Unblurred First Friday Habeas Corpus Milonga and I absolutely love it. The Big Apple and Philadelphia simply cannot compete with this event as it is in a class by itself, a spectacle to behold, a sight to be seen, one of the Seven Great Wonders of the Tango World, even more wondrous than tango at the Temple of the Living Goddess at Heart-Path ­­Retreat Center in Pojoaque, New Mexico.
Friday night here is one big party for several blocks. Loud music is blaring up and down the street, vendors and local artists are hawking their wares as young, drunken, tattooed adults with purple hair and pierced everything wander about like the spoiled Americans the whole world has read about, envies and imitates.
The facility is a small, street-front law office that has a desk and a few banquet chairs placed against the wall. There are documents lying around and pinned to the walls, the kind you are likely to find at a place where a lawyer works: titles to cars, legal forms, petitions, etc. The door is always open except when Rich comes upstairs and closes it. I’m not sure why he does this, it probably has something to do with the legality of the whole scene but it makes the tiny space full of dancing couples too hot to bear and the door opens again as soon as he departs.
Downstairs there is an old bicycle repair garage that has been converted into a larger dance area that opens up to the back alley. There is an anteroom at the bottom of the stairs where there are two couches so dancers can change into their shoes. There are also two tables filled with drinks and food. The food, I believe, is always some sort of homemade dish of Latino origin: tacos, empanadas, enchiladas, etc. and there is a jar if anyone feels like donating to the cause.
The tango upstairs is always traditional and of the highest caliber. People wander in from the avenue out of curiosity. Sometimes it is a couple who hear the music and see the dancing and are inspired to be romantic. They join the crowd, realize that they don’t know how to dance after a few awkward minutes and even more collisions and then make their way downstairs to sit on the couches. There are other stragglers, too, that join the gathering, uncertain what to make of the place and waiting in vain for someone to approach them with a sales pitch to buy something or to join the club. It is a sales pitch that never comes and that, I think, is what baffles people most about this milonga.
Downstairs there is almost always some Nuevo music playing and an odd mixture of talented dancers and total beginners.
There is a philosophy that keeps this place going. I can’t really say what that philosophy is except that everyone is welcome and that tango is danced here and that the definition of tango is open to interpretation and all interpretations are respected. I can say that this place is a refuge from the party outside, where overindulgence is expected as well as the auditory assault of the loud music and the hypocrisy of the revelers dressed in grunge clothing mass produced in China just for them.
I’m not a lawyer but I think habeas corpus means that we are here for you. If you are tired of the false premises of the party and would just like a chance to dance and heal your bones, maybe even heal your soul, the Unblurred First Friday Habeas Corpus Milonga is the place for you. Everybody is welcome here, always and without conditions.



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